The Vines of St. Helena: John Gantner of School House Vineyards

Originally published in the St. Helena Star

When was your winery founded?

“Winery founded in 1957 — vineyard purchased by my father, John O. Gantner, in 1940. First release of the School House Pinot Noir was 1957. It was made at Stony Hill — other side of the mountain — by Fred McCrea.”

Why did you choose to be in the Spring Mountain District American Viticultural Area (AVA)?

“Spring Mountain was a wonderful place in 1940 and it still is. There was no Spring Mountain District AVA until much later in the 1980-1990 period.”

Who is owner? Who is winemaker? Who is vineyard manager?

“John M. Gantner, son of John O. Gantner, owner. Sally Johnson, winemaker — custom crush at Tamber Bey. Vineyard managers are Brian Penterman, John Gantner, Tim Mosher and Nancy Walker. We do believe that the wine is made in the vineyard and the winemaker’s job is to bring out its best character. Sally does a splendid job.”

How many acres do you farm in the Spring Mountain District AVA? How does that break down into types of varietals/acre?

“1.5 acres of Chardonnay; 1+ acres of Zinfandel; 4 acres of Syrah & Grenache; 4.5 acres of Pinot Noir.”

Do you farm sustainably/organically/biodynamically?

“We farm sustainably using guidelines of Fish Friendly Farming.”

Please describe your vineyards: soil; exposure; narrow spacing; type of trellising; irrigation/dry-farmed, etc.

“Vineyard has a tremendous variety of soil ‘types.’ Most consisting of volcanic lava loams, clay and rocks. Trellising and spacing pretty much determined by each vineyard block, all of which were planted in grapes when JO bought the property in 1940. We no longer use mule/horse-dragged equipment. The vineyard is now and will continue to be dry-farmed. Always has been. Hand-watering of newly planted vines through modern methods have insinuated drip irrigation for the first year (or so).”

Wineries today try to differentiate the visitor experience. What is unique about visiting your winery/tasting room?

“The place and the people, the wonderful wines, and the fact that we do not have a ‘tasting room.’ People come to taste who are friends and guests. And the fact that we produce a wonderful Pinot Noir from vines who were born in the Romanee Conti. Because of dry farming (and Pinot naturally low-producing) our production is about 1 ton/acre of the Pinot.

What might surprise people to learn about you/your winery/your operation?

“All of the above, and the fact that all School House wines are vinified from grapes grown on the property. We have never integrated off-site sourced grapes. And for most of the past 80+ years of grape growing on Spring Mountain, School House was the only Pinot Noir grown for retail wine production.”

What’s your favorite place in St. Helena to eat, drink or relax?

“Until 15 or 20 years ago any place that had anything to do with Hiro & Lisa, or Cindy Pawlcyn. Now would be Press, Brasswood, Farmstead, Tra Vigne. Beyond St. Helena the Valley is rich in places that are wonderful to eat, drink, and enjoy life.”

Learn more about School House Vineyards here

(This is the latest in a series of Q&A articles highlighting winemakers and grape growers in the St. Helena area.)

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